B&D Icehouse is a San Antonio classic with a history that goes back to 1961 in a vintage cinderblock building that puts me a little bit in mind of the legendary Dell’s Den in Valley, Alabama. Must be something about a cinder block restaurant that jus’ calls out to the Porkchop. Probably a great coffee table book just waiting to be put together on restaurants in cinderblock buildings. But that’s another story…
Back to B&D Icehouse, in Southtown San Antonio: Mighty fine barbecue here, folks. Was in there Friday night and Ross Carter was on the pit. Let me tell you he was very generous with his time, and here’s a guy with an interesting story. His first job in barbecue was at the fabled Salt Lick (In Dripping Springs, mind you, NOT Austin). He did a stint at Franklin Barbecue and credits Aaron with teaching him a lot about the art of smoking meat! Now after fifteen years in the business he is one of a great crew working under Pit Mast José Cueva at B&D, which is also helmed in part by noted San Antonio restaurant impresarios Jason and Jake Dady.
This brisket is prepared over a long hours in keeping with the latest twist on low and slow smoking. In a nod to Franklin, after the meat has spent about ten to twelve hours on the pit, it’s wrapped in butcher paper and stored overnight in a cooler (Ross is insistent: A Yeti!) before being brought up to temperature the next morning when it goes back on the pit.
The end result is a moist, tender smoky slice of brisket. On a Friday night at the B&D, that was just the ticket!
Thanks again to Ross, and all the B & D Icehouse team, including Pit Master Jose Cueva, and top shelf front of the house personnel Rueben and Spencer, for their outstanding hospitality, tasty meats and a terrific tour of the pit! These folks know their pit, love their craft, and take care of business.
All the best to all y’all.
“Where there’s smoke, there’s meat!”
– Clarence “Porkchop” Dupree